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Sdewolfe
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![[*]](./images/corporate/default_icon.gif) posted on 28-5-08 at 05:52 PM |
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Inducing
Here's one I learned from Hap...
Say you've left your favorite Anderson inducer on your last job and you need to test a pipe.
Drill and tap a 1/4" hole into a 90, coupling or any other fitting and then you can thread in an air fitting for your test. After you're done, you
can twist in a 1/4" threaded plug which are cheap and plentiful or you can install a gauge and let the customer know you've UPGRADED their
system!
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ALD
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| posted on 28-5-08 at 07:27 PM |
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Genius!
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hap
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| posted on 28-5-08 at 08:00 PM |
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Here's a tip that works great.
If you like cash payment, ask. You can say: "Yes Ma'am I'll finish loading up my tools and fill out an invoice for you. Will that be cash or
check?"
Does not work all the time but it will work.
hap
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hap
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| posted on 1-6-08 at 03:00 PM |
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Okay here's a tip that most of us can do and not spend any money on a new tool. Put your binoculars on your truck and use them to inspect tile,
skimmer throats, anything that has some light on it. Even low light areas can be inspected. Use a hand mirror to reflect sunlight into a pipe or
whatever from a distance. It's better than standing on your head trying to see something upside down while your glasses are falling in the water.
hap
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hap
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| posted on 10-6-08 at 08:11 PM |
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Steve gave me this technique idea about 1-1/2 years ago.
I had a weird one today. It was a 40 year old pool with two returns that are separate and have separate valves at the manifold. One of my remodel
customers just finished new everything on this job and was hoping I would find something simple to put some 5 minute epoxy on. A quick dye test
revealed that one of the returns is leaking fast. Now it gets more complicated, elevation changes and different deck and slabs and different concrete
thickness' are making the this one difficult to pin point for my good customer(this guy gives me lots of preventive work). This return is 3" going
into the ground at the equipment and 1-1/2" at the pool wall fitting. The transition to 1-1/2" is inside the pool wall so I know the line is 3" up
to the transition. Steve D. said to carry some latex tubing on the truck so I tried using that and discovered the it explodes after about 2-1/4" of
inflation. Next we tried party balloons. They worked great. We moved it down the line, inflated, check for leaking, deflate, moved it over and over
again until we had a pretty good idea where to saw cut the deck. This technique works good on static leaks but don't think you can pressure up on a
balloon. We had the 3" line sawed off at the equipment and could see if the water was dropping. I cut off an inflation hose so I could zip tie the
balloon onto it and added a 10' hose to get down the line. Anderson sells long hoses but screwing several together works okay too. After I finished
the homeowner walks up and says "That's right where my plumber dug a ditch and installed a new drain pipe.
hap
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pooltech1
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| posted on 12-5-09 at 08:19 AM |
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Hap, there are rubber "blow-ups" you can buy fr Anderson that work very well. You can also buy theese at most plumbing supply houses.
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brrscuba
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Mood: Underwater!
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| posted on 3-11-09 at 09:13 AM |
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Hoping that puting this thread back on top of the list might inspire some of the 2893 members.
Cold, dirty, ugly pool water season is upon us here in the northeast, thank god for drysuits
Bruce
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4Leakman
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| posted on 3-11-09 at 06:57 PM |
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???
Real men don't wear drysuits!!! 
| Quote: | Originally posted by brrscuba
Hoping that puting this thread back on top of the list might inspire some of the 2893 members.
Cold, dirty, ugly pool water season is upon us here in the northeast, thank god for drysuits
Bruce |
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trackerm
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| posted on 7-11-09 at 02:05 PM |
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Good advice hap on leaving a note. I have left information for people and call me back the next day to tell me the water loss in the bucket only. Or
they had 1/4 inch of water loss over three days and that seems "excessive" Or their pool company or someone told them 1/4 loss over three days is
definately a leak. We could go on and on for a long time on those. But at any rate, education to the pool owner who otherwise doesnt do much with it
other than swim is the key. Hopefully they can absorb and assimilate the information.
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Sdewolfe
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| posted on 7-11-09 at 06:14 PM |
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Good to see this subject back up. What are some of the tricks that are used to get a drain grate screw back on without getting wet?
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eyemleaky
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| posted on 11-11-09 at 08:24 PM |
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portable vac
cloudy water is a pita when doing underwater repairs on gunite pools.
ask around and pick up a use but good cartridge filer and a used pump.
plumb and wire them together on a hand truck, use vac hose for suction and return.
this way you can have a clear pool and happy customers, no more 24 hr. waits to swim, and no real cleanup
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Poolman
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| posted on 20-12-09 at 10:51 AM |
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Following on from drilling into pipes for testing we carry 1/4 and 1/2 inch taps to thread the holes.
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hap
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| posted on 2-2-10 at 10:11 PM |
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Talked to Lance today. Suggested he start selling some devices I've been making and using for a few years. First up is some soft silicone taper plugs
I made from this stuff.....
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1115_1129/index.html
Roll a cone shaped form and pore it in. Make one with a plastic straw so you can dye test returns or any pipe in few minutes. Works great if the pool
is leaking fast with the EQ off. I made several in various sizes.
You can also save a ton of time on infloor systems and flat drain grates by making some Pool Pattys with the same stuff in a disk. Pour two layers, on
the second layer add some lead shot from your local firearm shop. They're very hard to remove with a pole unless you do this....
Make them so there is small half radius on the side that you can thread a string through. Before you tie it on the pattty thread the string through a
short piece of vinyl tubing. The tubing will trap air and float so you can hook it with a bolt through a pole.
In use, pick one infloor station, cover all but one infloor head with the pattys, cover the last head leaving a small gap. Tape a 16' length of
syringe tube to your pole and dye test. Don't forget to remove the actuator dome at the EQ area to prevent siphoning. I've isloated several dozen
infloor leaks this way and never got wet when it was burrrrr.....cold.
Drain pool and fix.
hap has attached this image:
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hap
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| posted on 2-2-10 at 10:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by pooltech1
Hap, there are rubber "blow-ups" you can buy fr Anderson that work very well. You can also buy theese at most plumbing supply houses.
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I forgot to mention an important detail on that job. The 3" was between the 1 1/2" pipes. We could see it under a fence footing and some deck with a
flashlight but access was difficult at best.
Go figure why someone would do such a thing????
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cpr
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| posted on 3-2-10 at 08:38 AM |
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When I dye test a structure of a pool I use syringes with needles, You can get them at a feed store for about 50 cents a piece. They can last several
weeks and when they get hard to push just replace. The needle alows you to put a very tiny amount of dye in a hole or crack were as using it without a
needle can put to much dye and give you a false result.It also allows you to put the needle up in the hole or crack cause sometime if you put dye on
the outside it will not suck in but will when you stick needle in, just fan the area with your hand afterward and if no dye come out LEAK,
also especially around skimmer throats if needle goes all they way in but takes no dye I call it leaking, There may be to much water in ground to suck
dye. Of course I explain to customer and least them know if they want to repair. 9 time out of ten it is a yes. Also if you want to make a little more
money. If you see a skimmer throat that looks like it is going to leak soon but not leaking tell the customer, give a discount they will usually go
for it
example: I tell them my regular price is 225 but if they want to prevent it from leaking and get a one year warranty I will do it for 50 since I am
there. It prevents go backs the customer is real happy cause you just saved them 175!
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eyemleaky
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| posted on 4-2-10 at 06:05 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by cpr
When I dye test a structure of a pool I use syringes with needles, You can get them at a feed store for about 50 cents a piece. They can last several
weeks and when they get hard to push just replace. The needle alows you to put a very tiny amount of dye in a hole or crack were as using it without a
needle can put to much dye and give you a false result.It also allows you to put the needle up in the hole or crack cause sometime if you put dye on
the outside it will not suck in but will when you stick needle in, just fan the area with your hand afterward and if no dye come out LEAK,
also especially around skimmer throats if needle goes all they way in but takes no dye I call it leaking, There may be to much water in ground to suck
dye. Of course I explain to customer and least them know if they want to repair. 9 time out of ten it is a yes. Also if you want to make a little more
money. If you see a skimmer throat that looks like it is going to leak soon but not leaking tell the customer, give a discount they will usually go
for it
example: I tell them my regular price is 225 but if they want to prevent it from leaking and get a one year warranty I will do it for 50 since I am
there. It prevents go backs the customer is real happy cause you just saved them 175! |
do it for $175 and you'll both be happy
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eyemleaky
Junior Member
Posts: 39
Registered: 31-10-07
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| posted on 4-2-10 at 06:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Sdewolfe
Here's one I learned from Hap...
Say you've left your favorite Anderson inducer on your last job and you need to test a pipe.
Drill and tap a 1/4" hole into a 90, coupling or any other fitting and then you can thread in an air fitting for your test. After you're done, you
can twist in a 1/4" threaded plug which are cheap and plentiful or you can install a gauge and let the customer know you've UPGRADED their
system! |
i install schrader valves in this manor, an the red inflator hose can be attached for testing. the valve is left and pressure can be tested in the
future without further modification
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eyemleaky
Junior Member
Posts: 39
Registered: 31-10-07
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| posted on 4-2-10 at 06:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by hap
Talked to Lance today. Suggested he start selling some devices I've been making and using for a few years. First up is some soft silicone taper plugs
I made from this stuff.....
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1115_1129/index.html
Roll a cone shaped form and pore it in. Make one with a plastic straw so you can dye test returns or any pipe in few minutes. Works great if the pool
is leaking fast with the EQ off. I made several in various sizes.
You can also save a ton of time on infloor systems and flat drain grates by making some Pool Pattys with the same stuff in a disk. Pour two layers, on
the second layer add some lead shot from your local firearm shop. They're very hard to remove with a pole unless you do this....
Make them so there is small half radius on the side that you can thread a string through. Before you tie it on the pattty thread the string through a
short piece of vinyl tubing. The tubing will trap air and float so you can hook it with a bolt through a pole.
In use, pick one infloor station, cover all but one infloor head with the pattys, cover the last head leaving a small gap. Tape a 16' length of
syringe tube to your pole and dye test. Don't forget to remove the actuator dome at the EQ area to prevent siphoning. I've isloated several dozen
infloor leaks this way and never got wet when it was burrrrr.....cold.
Drain pool and fix. |
one of your best ideas hap
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trackerm
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Posts: 190
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| posted on 4-2-10 at 06:43 PM |
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LOL ROFL
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eyemleaky
Junior Member
Posts: 39
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| posted on 4-2-10 at 07:24 PM |
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i've posted this before but it works so well that it needs repeat.
when trying to locate suction and return lines i use coated aircraft cable or electric fence string (nylon string with wire woven into it), you don't
have to unwind the whole roll of cable if you expose both wire ends.
another trick is to drill a hole in a golfball for (2-1/2" or larger pipe) and run the pull wire or fishtape through it, keeps wires from hanging up
on fittings.
hard to get a good ground due to sandy soil, cut a 5 gal bucket down (just under the bail) dig a hole deeper than the bucket is, bury the bucket so
that there's 3-4" of soil above the top. fill the bucket up with water and soak the surrounding area with water, insert the ground rod inside of
the bucket. this has helped me before when i couldn't get a ground. the soil over the wet bucket will allow a better ground for locates
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