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allclearpools
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![[*]](./images/corporate/default_icon.gif) posted on 6-6-10 at 04:45 PM |
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I tried to get cord stoppers before and wasn't able to get them. Where can I get them?
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edbarcik
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| posted on 23-6-10 at 07:17 AM |
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I've been very successful with hydrophilic sealers which expand on contact with water. I put the stuff in those little hypos that come with tooth
whitening agents, stick it in the opening adjacent to the light cord and let it rip, as soon as it contacts the water it swells and seals the light,
since it's flexible and sticky, no problems with the light cord.
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ahhaha
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| posted on 8-7-10 at 09:06 AM |
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Concerning "hydrophilic sealers", do you have a particular brand or where I could get such?
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Don
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| posted on 3-9-10 at 12:18 AM |
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see below
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SCUBASTEVE59
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| posted on 28-5-11 at 08:04 PM |
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When using butyl tape, pull off 8 to 10 inches. Roll into a ball and then flatten into a wafer about 1 inch X 2 inches. Wrap around cord and ground
wire in a figure 8 pattern then push into conduit with a blunt ended tool such as a Phillips srewdriver. You can add more on top off needed. Never
called back for a light leak redo.
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snak23
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| posted on 3-6-11 at 08:13 AM |
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thanks for the advice, I've never tried using the butyl tape that way. I'll use this on my next light repair.
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Don
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| posted on 18-8-11 at 10:58 PM |
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light leaks
I strongly urge not to use cord stoppers, while they seal the cord to the cord stopper, they do NOT seal the threads of the cord stoppers to the light
conduit fitting, they would need an O ring or teflon tape or sealant at installation. With their front lip, it is almost impossible to check the
threads. Pools will still leak about an 1/8+" more than evaporation(depending on pool size) with these properly installed. I've run numerous bucket
tests to prove this. I have required my 6 builders to NOT use cord stoppers or I charge them additional each pool to automatically remove them. Have
to unscrew and break/cut off. After 18 years experience, trying most everything, for ME ONLY what works best is quick set epoxy. After a thorough
mixing, you have about 4 minutes to properly pack it. On any dive I check the light FIRST, if it needs repair I do that then. Cleaning all other
materials out of coduit completely, then mixing, then installing quick set epoxy. I leave the light out, with cord undisturbed while I finish the rest
of my dive, that way the cord doesn't open up while the epoxy hardens. After at least 15 minutes (depending on water temp, maybe more) the epoxy is
usually hard enough to allow gently putting light back in, cord will not open up and leak. The last 7 years, I've never had to redo. In the past, I
had too many redo's with butyl, because a customer or pool cleaner has changed a light bulb and disturbed the butyl. While it may be a couple hundred
extra of income for me, I don't like doing that to my customers.
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Semi_Retired
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| posted on 19-8-11 at 10:41 AM |
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Doing what?
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Semi_Retired
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| posted on 15-12-11 at 02:52 PM |
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May I suggest putting a note in the junction box if you have sealed a cord with epoxy? That way the person pulling a new light fixture will know.
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jstinemire
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Location: Pasadena, MD
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| posted on 18-12-11 at 04:36 AM |
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I know that this topic was started back in 2007 and is an old topic, but I need to clarify something for any new readers out there.
There is quite a divergence of opinions in this thread as to the best product and method to use to stop a leaking light niche or leaking conduit. If
you truly want to be serviceable to your customer and forward thinking, you must NEVER PUT ANYTHING into the conduit that is not easily removed at a
later date when the light needs to be replaced! That includes silicone sealants and epoxy!!
For those folks complaining that the butyl tape falls off, it is because they are not applying it correctly! BRRSCUBA (Bruce) stated very clearly,
early in this thread, the proper method for applying butyl tape.
If the leak is AROUND the conduit connection and not IN the connection, epoxy can be used to seal where the conduit locking ring is loose or corroded
away, but you need to make certain that you ONLY use the epoxy AROUND the conduit, and that you not cover or fill the hole with epoxy!!
Epoxy, silicone, foam and Sikaflex are permanent seals and will prevent light replacement in the future! You are doing a disservice to the customer
if you use ANY of those products INSIDE the conduit!!
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Poolman
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| posted on 21-12-11 at 12:39 PM |
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Butyl rubber for us on the whole, if its real bad will pull cable down into pool a few inches, smear it with silicone grease, push it back into
conduit and then silicone seal. Never had a stuck cable. 
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